The 4 Years before that I ended a lifelong Love Affair with Drugs. This is the way it has always been in my life, and I won't go any farther back, in hopes of not getting off track.
Well, this Leap Year has not been much different as of so far. I am building a new business and am aiming towards a career change, I am planning on running a multiple of 100 mile races, but whats really grand here, i am directing my life to Surf More.
For me, it is sort of frustrating to Surf if you are not in Top Surfing Shape. I might be able to run and hike all day and so forth, but that is nothing near Top Surfing Shape. In order to surf good, you need to be lean, strong, both upper and bottom body strength, but also flexible, with good balance.
Well the waves have been good, and there is no better conditioning than actually surfing its self. It is sort of frustrating, being heavy, with no paddle strength, and with the balance of a bull. But thing continue to get better daily. I have been cross-fitting, eating right and stretching out to Yoga. This along with actually Surfing, has been a slow but at least forward direction towards my ultimate goal, of being on top of my game.
Each day has been getting better, but most important, it is really fun. I have been surfing with some old pals, as well as getting those solo sessions in some great surf. It has been really good the last couple of weeks, and with that, comes that soul that only surfer knows about. It has to do with Ocean, Atmosphere and Human Interaction that all works in Harmony. This is a really good thing and I am grateful to being able to get closer to my roots...
